Valenza & Co.

The Journal

Notes from the Road

Occasional writing on travel, considered design, and the way a scent fixes a journey in the memory long after the journey has ended.

The Alpine Pass at First Light

Route Notes

The Alpine Pass at First Light

Forty-eight hairpins before the valley wakes. At altitude the air is thin and cold, and bergamot behaves differently in it — brighter, shorter, almost brittle. We took Black Ice for the ascent and found it had been composed, unknowingly, for exactly this.

On Olfactory Memory

Essay

On Olfactory Memory

Why the scent of warm leather returns us, unbidden, to a summer we did not choose to remember. A short study of the olfactory bulb, its unusual proximity to the seat of memory, and what perfumers quietly do with that fact.

A Grand Tour in Five Stops

Itinerary

A Grand Tour in Five Stops

A coastal grand tour by way of mountain roads and a farmhouse with no address that serves one dish. Three days, no motorway, and a boot packed with rather less than one imagines is necessary.